Under Cabinet Lightingsubstructure lighting
Illuminate your kitchen with the latest LED kitchen lighting.
Installing the under-cabinet lighting
The under-cabinet lighting can be pluggable or hard-wired. Hardwired systems are more appealing because there is usually no open cabling and a separate panel control panel is used. For the installation of plug-in modules, the luminaire is easily attached to the bottom of the top cabinet and plugged into a near-by socket.
The devices are switched on and off using the integrated switches. For the hardwired base cabinet system, the simplest way to get electricity is to drain the electricity from a local outlet. To do this, you must lead a new wire to a new control cabinet, which you must reinstall, and then pull the wire from the breaker to the location where each device is in.
It can be difficult to find out where the wires to the devices need to be laid. It is also necessary to make a hole in the tunnels so that you can disconnect the cabel. When you cannot take off the upstand, you must still grab the bolts and make a hole for the wire. Attempt to keep the cut (to get the wire out of the walls and to the brackets) as small as possible.
When possible, try to run the wire so high that it comes out of the cabinet and not out of the cabinet underneath. When your cord needs to come out from under the case, make the holes as firm as possible to the case so that the unit covers it.
Ensure that there are approximately 16 to 18 in. cables emerging from each opening so that you have enough additional cables to make it. Remove insulation from the sheath so that the single cores are approx. 8 inch free. You' re also gonna have to make a drill in it.
You can use a conversion kit for this button. The speakers have feather flaps, side clips or fold-out ear clips that hold the speaker in place when you can't pin it to a stand. Once the speaker is in place, unplug the wire for the button and leave 16 to 18 inch. Once you have laid the wire, you should begin to position the highlights.
Comply with the manufacturer's directions and remove any equipment required for installing. Pass the wire through the break-out openings in the lamp base and fasten the wire with a clam. Ensure that the sheath is in the terminal and not in the single strands. The most hardwired brackets power the terminals.
Next, place the device under the case and tighten the screws. Attach the device leads to the single leads of the lead. Place the wire so that it lies level in the baseplate and be sure not to jam it when reattaching the baseplate to the body.
Comply with the manufacturer's directions and complete the installation of the unit. With each luminaire plugged in, it's a good idea to pack things up by plugging the cable into the power button and then test your nice new luminaires. Start by joining the whitewires of both leads together. Keep in mind that there are two leads to the device:
One, which carries the current to the breaker and the other, which transmits the current to the devices. Then, the mono-core cables of each wire are attached to the clamps of a single-pole circuit breaker. It is important to remember that you have not yet done anything with the speaker or the cord that provides the electricity.
Turn off the device you are going to tap before taking the next one. Now join the two cores with the new one and the new one. When you see a coloured line in the speaker, plug it into the coloured lines.