South of Saugerties
down to just above Newburgh, the nature of the river is
a bit narrower, hills and bluffs rise from the banks and
the current quickens a bit. Lying within this section
of the river the great and powerful 19th century barons
of industry created their Great Estates and country homes.
On both sides of the river, but mostly on the east bank,
they erected massive homes, created romantic landscapes
and pursued the country life. The Vanderbilts and Roosevelts
settled in Hyde Park while the Livingstons and their kin
continued to develop their vast holdings to the north
in Dutchess County.
Kingston, New York's
first Capital, is an old and historic town. Very friendly,
Kingston welcomes boaters to many marinas and facilities
both on the river and on the Rondout Creek. The section
of the city on the Rondout, originally the terminus
of the D&H Canal and an industrial and commercial
powerhouse, is a walking hamlet, filled with interesting
shops, museums and great eateries. Up in the Stockade,
the old town, you can walk the historic trail exploring
the colonial stone homes, the Senate House and later
19th century urban development.
As you pass Hyde Park, visit
the mansions and explore FDR's Presidential Library.
Grab a cab and make a visit to Val Kill, Eleanor Roosevelts
private domain. In Poughkeepsie attend a performance
at the Bardavon Opera House and have a memorable meal
at the Culinary Institute of America overlooking the
Hudson between Hyde Park and Poughkeepsie.
At Newburgh the river
widens for a moment before it plunges into the imposing
North Gate of the Hudson Highlands. Newburgh has spent
millions redeveloping its waterfront at Newburgh Landing
where restaurants line the quay and you can tie up and
enjoy the food and drink. Across the river is Beacon,
a newly "discovered" town. In Beacon, Dia, one
of the most important contemporary arts museums in New
York City has opened its largest and most impressive location.
Easily accessible from the riverfront and several marinas
on the bank, Dia takes you into the world of the arts.
Vast galleries containing dizzying masterpieces of contemporary
art await for you to experience and appreciate.
Just below Beacon
on the east bank lies Denning Point State Park. Fairly
undeveloped, it provides excellent protected anchorage
between the point and the east bank. On the west bank
just above the North Gate is Cornwall-on-Hudson, a charming
little vest pocket village with some marina activity
below their Riverfront Park. Cornwall-on-Hudson is the
perfect jumping off point for exploring the majestic
riverscape of the Hudson Highlands.
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The Hudson Highlands
lie between the mountains at the southern end of the Newburgh
Bays, known as the North Gate, south to the precipitous
mountain pass at Peekskill, the South Gate. In this dramatic
section the river cuts directly through the Appalachian
Mountains as they rise directly from the narrowing river
on both banks, the current quickens and the river reaches
it deepest points. The Highlands are a dramatic landscape,
steeped in lore and history. The Highlands were fought
over in the American Revolution and formed the hub around
which General George Washington formed his strategy. The
center of the wheel was West Point, now the United States
Military Academy at West Point. The point forms a double
90 degree dog-leg around which any flotilla had to navigate
through swift changing currents and unpredictable winds.
Numerous redoubts and forts protected the southern approaches
to the point atop the high bluffs commanding the river
on both banks.
At the North Gate, seemingly
guarding the northern entrance to the Highlands is Bannerman's
Castle on Pollepel Island. Long abandoned and crumbling,
the structure was a ammunitions dump created after the
Civil War for a dealer in military surplus out of Brooklyn.
Navigate around the island but don't land as the structures
are in a dangerous state if disrepair.
Cold Spring is north
of West Point and provides multiple opportunities to
enjoy the village from the banks. Short term tie-ups
are available at the village waterfront allowing you
access to one of the most charming villages in the Hudson
Valley. Filled with quaint shops and excellent cafes
and restaurants, Cold Spring is a place to see. Across
from West Point is Garrison, another potential day stop.
From Garrison, West Point looms up from across the river.
In these dangerous times,
be aware that there are restrictions on approaching
or accessing West Point from the river. You will probably
be politely warned away, but run the risk of stronger
actions depending on the state of the world and the
anxiety of the officials.
Bear Mountain State Park
is located just north of the South Gate on the west
bank. Formerly part of the Harriman Estate and donated
to the State of New York in one of the opening gambits
of the environmental movement, the park provides seemingly
endless opportunities to hike the mountains and trails
of the lower Highlands. The first segment of the Appalachian
Trail, now stretching from Maine to Georgia, was created
at Bear Mountain. In addition to hiking, Bear Mountain
State Park provides all manner of recreational possibilities
from swimming to biking to fairs & festivals and
excellent ice skating in the winter months. Just below
Bear Mountain is the Iona Marsh, the northernmost remaining
brackish water estuary marsh on the lower Hudson.
Just below the South Gate
be aware that Indian Point Nuclear Electric Generation
Plant is located on the eastern shore, at the lower
reaches of Peekskill Bay. This is a highly restricted
area and should be avoided if you want to not experience
the nervous anxiety of local, state and federal authorities.
Stretching from below Peekskill
to just above the George Washington Bridge, this section
of the river, named the Tappan Zee, is where the mighty
Hudson stretches its shoulders to its widest point,
nearly 4 miles wide at Haverstraw. Here the river becomes
an estuary flowing in both directions with the tides.
Tidal marshes line the western shore below Piermont
and the historic rivertowns of Westchester line the
eastern shore.
"The Big House",
Sing Sing Prison, is perched on the east shore of the
river at Ossining. One of America's original reformed
prisons, Sing Sing entered into American legend in the
30's as the final destination of Hollywood movie gangsters
who were shipped "up the river." Still in
operation today, Sing Sing continues to holds some of
New York's prison population behind its high security
walls.
Towering above the river
on the western shore of the Tappan Zee are the imposing
Palisades. Remnants of the monumental geologic forces
that shaped the Hudson Valley, the Palisades form the
perfect backdrop against which the mighty river flows
toward the sea. They were also the genesis of the ecologic
movement in the late 19th century. Once established, it
swept up river protecting the Highlands and finally spilled
out over the river's banks forming the opening battles
and strategies of today's modern environmental awareness.
Croton Point Park on
the eastern shore provides a protected anchorage with
many recreational possibilities, including one of the
few swimming beaches on the river. It is one of the favorite
day time anchorage points for many boaters on the river.
To the south George's Island County Park provides another
protected anchorage as well as ramp facilities. The old
WWII Navy Pier at Piermont on the west bank, "Last
Stop USA" where hundreds of thousands of troops shipped
out for Europe, juts out into the river nearly a mile.
Piermont abounds with marinas and is filled with charming
shops, sidewalk cafes and galleries. North of Piermont,
above Nyack, is Nyack Beach State Park, another location
to anchor and access the land, and Rockland Lake State
Park, contiguous with Nyack Beach State Park to the north.
Across the
river from Nyack is Tarrytown whose banks are lined
with marinas and parks. Tarrytown is the home of Washington
Irving's Ichabod Crane and his nemeses the Headless
Horseman. Several of the Hudson Valley's most important
and interesting attractions are best accessed via Tarrytown,
such as Lyndhurst, Phillipsburg Manor and Washington
Irving's home, Sunnyside. Below Tarrytown is Yonkers
with public docking and a multitude of onshore entertainment
and eating possibilities.
By the way, the origins
of the name "Tappan Zee" encompass two very
different cultures. When Europeans first arrived, the
Tappan Indian tribe inhabited the shores of this section
of the river. In Dutch, the original European settlers,
"zee" meant a wide body of water. Together,
they create "Tappan Zee." Or so the story
goes...
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